Connect the SDA wire to Analogue pin 4, and the SCL wire to pin 5.īefore gluing the Arduino and strip board into the cartridge, connect the Arduino to the PC using the USB connector. Now the only step left is to connect the Arduino's two I2C pins to the cartridge chip. Write down the colours of the wires that you soldered to each connector - you'll need this later in the process. Hopefully you can do better than my child-like attempt at soldering! Make a note Lay the conductors flat on the terminals, and then solder them to the terminals, as shown in the pictures. Do the same with the second pair and the bottom two holes. Push the stripped conductors of one pair through the top two holes, from the inside side of the cartridge. Connecting the wiresįind two piece of twisted-pair cable and strip a few millimetres of insulator from the ends. Counting from the top : Terminal Usageĭrill 4 holes in the plastic part of the cartridge (be careful not to drill the circuit board), between terminals 1/2, 4/5, 7/8 and 10/11. There are four I/O connections on the cartridge, each exposed through two of the connector terminals. It may help to remove the cartridge label as shown in the picture above. To facilitate this, we will solder some wires to the contacts, and feed these inside the cartridge to be connected to our circuit. We will add our Arduino as a second slave on that same bus. For the more technical minded, the Catgenie acts as an I2C bus master (providing a clock signal), and the cartridge acts as a slave. The Catgenie communicates with the chip on the cartridge through the exposed contacts. A very small drill bit (I used 1.0mm), and a drill Some thin wire (I used some un-twisted Cat-5) A small piece of stripboard to wire up the LEDs and button I am using the Duemilanove, but the newer Uno or one of the smaller cheaper boards should be fine It is powered by the Catgenie and so is fully self contained. The solution I ended up with is a modified SaniSolution cartridge that contains an Arduino, some indicator LEDs and a button to reset the cartridge. While I could read from and write to the chip using the Arduino, the Catgenie didn't like it. Replacing the cartridge with a 24LC00 EEPROM. This didn't work for some reason - the controller never seems to receive any I2C commands from the Catgenie. Making the Arduino pretend to be a cartridge. Today I got round to testing some more permanent solutions. I had previous updated Scott's program to so that it output some debugging output to the computer during the reset, as the process had never been very smooth. I had never taken my Catgenie apart as Scott did, but had built a small contact board instead. This project follows on from the excellent work by ScotSEA and his Arduino reset program (see ).
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